Some Things to Look for in A Home
LAND
A high and dry lot is most desirable. The optimal lot or building site is flat with the home built on a slight rise. Good surface water drainage is important. Concrete foundations are not waterproof and a positive pitch will direct water away from the home and help to keep your basement dry. The following are not desirable: surface water running down the driveway toward the home or basement garage; the home is at the bottom of a depression; there is a large hill very close to the home that slopes toward the home.
FOUNDATION
The foundation and underlying soil supports the structure. Poured concrete is the best. Block, stone or brick foundations have mortared joints that present a greater potential for water penetration and require more maintenance over time. Brick varies greatly in strength and water resistance and can present a host of problems after aging for 50 or more years. Thin cracks are usually not structurally significant but cracks wider than one quarter inch and especially horizontal cracks are indicative of structural problems. Always consult with a structural or geotechnical engineer when in doubt. The grade should slope away from the foundation wall to drain surface water away from the home. At least 4" of masonry showing above grade is desirable to help prevent the wooden members of the home from rotting and to discourage wood destroying insect activity.
ROOF
The roof covering keeps water from entering and damaging the home. Average life expectancy of standard 3-tab asphalt roof shingles on Cape Cod is 15-20 years. Architectural grade shingles may last up to 40 years. Curled, cupped, cracked or perforated asphalt shingles indicate potential problems and the need to install a new covering. All roofs should have gutters and downspouts with leaders or splash blocks to collect and direct roof water away from the foundation unless there are eaves that overhang the home by more than 3'.
STRUCTURAL
Poor supporting soil characteristics, proximity to side slopes, improper construction methods, age, lack of maintenance and amateur remodeling without the benefit of municipal Building Department permitting and oversight can all lead to structural problems. Roof sags, windows or doors that bind, floors that creak, inordinately cracked foundations and dry wall or wooden structural elements may all be indications of a problem.
ELECTRICAL
A 120/240 volt, 100 Amp. grounded system is a modern standard. Amperage depends on the size of the home or needs of the occupant. Old "knob and tube wiring" (single wire with cloth insulation that runs through ceramic insulating tubes inside wooden members or around ceramic knobs) is considered archaic, may not be accepted by insurance companies for coverage and does not have a ground. This type of wiring should be replaced. Watch out for amateur (not installed by a licensed electrician) wiring that can result in dangerous overloading, lack of over current protection or grounding. Signs may include dangling or unstapled wires, flickering lights, and lack of junction boxes or cover plates.
HEATING APPLIANCE & WATER HEATER
Cast iron boilers last longer than steel boilers in forced hot water systems. If the boiler cracks there is usually water on the floor. Forced hot air furnace heat exchangers may crack or rust through allowing combustion gases and carbon monoxide to enter living spaces and go undetected by the occupants. This condition has resulted in death. Always have a forced hot air heat exchanger checked for integrity by a professional HVAC contractor.
Separate direct fired water heaters have a storage capacity and are usually more efficient and provide more hot water than water heated by a tank less coil located inside a boiler pressure vessel. A separate side storage tank, indirect or booster style tank fed and heated from the boiler is also a good option.